16th Paris-Brest-Paris 1200k Randonnée

20-24 August 2007

Tips from the Riders!

Updated: 31-Aug-2007 by JLE

Questions on this page? Contact John Lee Ellis, Colorado Regional Brevet Administrator

As of 31-Aug-2007 10:58am

Rex Farnsworth

I thought that after 4 PBPs I pretty much knew "everything"; however, there were some really good tips on this web page.

• Re: Bike Cap (thanks to Tim Dodge) One can also use a helmet visor. In addition to Tim's excellent observations, the visor keeps the rain off the top of your glasses thus improving vision both day and night.
• Re: Clean bottle tops (thanks to Mike Fulton). Frankly, the rural French roads are covered with manure. As the spray comes up from the road, it covers the bottle tops with dung. I heard many stories of riders DNFing due to stomach problems, and suspect many of them were caused by dirty bottle tops. Use bottles that have covers. Novara bottles at REI are great.
• Re: Leaking Cateye (Mike Fulton). Use Plumber's Grease (pure silicone grease) on the seals. It makes the light more water resistent, helps keep O-rings in position, and it makes changing batteries easier.
• Reduce time in controls by peeing before or after the control.
• Always check in at the controls even if you think you are beyond the cutoff. In 2003 and again in 2007 [as Sandra Loflin points out below], the Organizers added extra time; and most riders were unaware of the bonus. Check in and let them decide.
• If you have poor sense of direction or problems spotting arrows at night, or arrows are missing (as leaving Dreux this year), use a GPS hand held navagation unit. I usually get lost once or twice in every 1200k plus waste lots of time stopping to read the route sheets, etc. The GPS really worked!
• If you are literally going to sleep on the bike and you cannot take a quick nap, try chasing a few rabbits. Getting the heart rate up for even a short period of time can peak your interest (i.e. get your mind off sleeping) and restore your mental alertness.

John Lee Ellis

• Neoprene toe-covers are toasty even when wet, yet take up little storage space.
• Among the extra bolts you might carry, consider a seat-post bolt.
• Potage at the controles is tasty and nourishing liquid nutrition, and quick to eat. It is chocked full of vegetables and minerals, including salt which you’ve likely depleted.
• Second-skin-like epidermal dressings such as 3M’s Tegaderm prevent or delay skin breakage in derrière contact areas, and thus hold infection at bay. Apply to clean skin before the event. Should last the entire event.

As of 30-Aug-2007

Larry Leinhart

• Use walkie-talkie to communicate with crew/support at checkpoints.
• Put fenders on earlier rather than later when it starts to rain.
• Use Light and Motion light system with 10 hour charge on low setting.
• Drink V8 for good flavor and salt.
• Use proper chain lube and the one designed for the condition you'll be riding, i.e. Pedro’s Ice Wax is not tenacious enough for steady rain condidtion.
• Insist on carrying your good wheels on the plane with you and if a gate agent declares that you must check the on, make sure they bubble wrap it really well!

Mike Fulton

• I had both Cateye lights go out in the rain with shorts; the only one that worked was my home rigged Night Sun helmet mount.  Not sure how you make sure the lights work in the rain before you go.  4 hours in the rain is hard to duplicate in training.  Having no light is BAD, having redundancy is important.  When it rains the pavement sucks up light unlike when it’s dry.  If its going to rain, definitely have more than one light.
• Even if it’s cool and rainy, if you’re overdressed you can sweat considerably and need salt replacement.  During the ride I started getting a headache and feeling nauseous, took some salt and felt immediately better.  When it started raining a little later, the salt sting in my eyes indicated I was definitely perspiring.  Better to be hot and sweat though, than cold and lose energy.
• A rear fender in the rain is huge!  A clip on doesn’t weigh much and boy is it nice to have a dry seat.  After hours in the rain, I changed everything BUT my shorts because my butt was dry.  If there was ANY chance of rain, I would definitely use one in the future.
• Warm mashed potatoes in a ziplock bag are awesome!  Use it like a feed bag.
• In the rain watch your water bottle tops for mud.  Mud can carry germs you didn’t really want to drink.  Wipe off the lid and spit out the first sip to cut down the risk of some stomach malady.
• Start keeping track of weather temperatures and clothing you wear that keeps you comfortable at those temperatures.  Plan that later on in a 1200 k your body will start running down on energy, so you need to dress as if it’s 15 – 20 deg colder than the actual temp. - i.e., on the second night of a 1200, if it’s 50, you should dress like it’s 30 – 35 deg, or you’ll be cold.  I bet most of the DNF’s on this ride were due to people getting so cold.
• Wool socks in the rain rock – Smartwool is my choice.  I used ski socks and full length leg warmers and was toasty.
• If you are supported, find directions to the checkpoints, and print detailed, local maps so it is easy for them to find the checkpoints.  Just as you should have detailed plans for your ride, you should detail everything step by step for your support.  Depending on how you are trying to finish, you may even want to drive the course first.
• Make sure you go to one of the best mechanics and have your bike gone over with a fine toothed comb, have new tires, new chain, new cassettes, cables, have the shifters looked at, check the wheels for true, etc.  750 miles can do a lot to a bike.
• I would definitely just train in the mountains next time for PBP or Black Forest, with a lot of climbing out of the saddle, as the PBP rollers seem to get everyone standing more.  I would also do pre-season strengthening with weights.
• One tablespoon of olive oil in my Perpetuem (tip per Carol Chaffee) worked very well, it’s 126 calories per tablespoon and so diluted it’s not hard to digest.

As of 29-Aug-2007 19:15

Mark Jilka

1. Use a standard bottom bracket.

2. And make sure your frame has a weep hole in the bottom bracket frame. When I pulled what was left of my bottom bracket, the area was fairly wet!

Sandra Loflin

• Time management is key. We were told not to spend too much time at controls but in the excitement did this anyway and it almost cost us the ride. Tape this tip inside your helmet or control card so you don't ignore it like we did. 
• If you think you’re out of the game, keep riding to the next control. You never know what you will find out. I thought I was out in Loudeac to find that 2 hours were added to the closing time of each control due to weather once we made it to the next control. My mood did a 180 and I was back in the game. Keep going even when you feel like you want to bail.
• A short nap works just as well as a longer sleep break for sharpening mental faculties; figure out what your body requires beforehand and adjust according.   
• Vivarin or No Doz works well during the night when you start to get really sleepy. If you get too sleepy, its best to take a brief nap than try to keep riding. We saw a lot of ambulances at night and sleeping riders on bikes as well.  
• Vendor props to the following for excellent gear in respective category: Lighting- DiNotte Lithium Ultra 3, Rain Jacket- Showers Pass, Rain Pants- rain legs (aka rain chaps), Saddle- Men's Terry Tri Fly Gel (works for women too- not a single saddle sore on the whole ride), Gear Bag- Ortleib Large Saddlebag        
• Solid food worked better for me than gels and liquid. I ate solid foods throughout the ride and only used about 8 gels the entire ride. Best control foods; mashed potatoes with bolognaise sause, soup, ham & cheese and ham & butter sandwiches.  

Tim Dodge

Things that worked:

1. Bike cap. On hot, sunny days a cap keeps the sun and sweat out of your eyes. On wet days the brim keeps rain out of your eyes. At night, you can tip your head forward to block oncoming headlights while keeping your eyes on the road. Almost indispensable.

2. Carrying a rain jacket during on/off storms. Loop it around your torso (over one shoulder and under the opposite arm) by tying the sleeves in a knot. This lets the jacket dry off and is much quicker than trying to stow it in your saddlebag or a jersey pocket. And then you can easily put it back on when the next squall comes through.

3. Small warm items. Toe covers, long fingered gloves, knee warmers, thermal undershirt, waterproof socks and the like made a big difference in keeping me comfortable. A wool jersey was nice, too.

4. Tubular tires. This is a highly personal (and controversial) choice. But with Tufo tires and their available tire sealant you can avoid almost all flats before they even occur... the tire simply self-seals. In almost 15,000km of riding so far this year my only flat was from a drywall screw... and nothing could have stood up to that. The Tufo glue tape even makes changing a tire on the road a simple affair: rip off the old tire and tape, apply new tape, put on new tire, pump it up. This process might be a little tough in the rain, but so is changing an inner tube. The most significant downside, to me, is that Tufo's biggest tire is a 25mm.

5. Gloves. Know how your gloves feel when wet. Personally, wet bike gloves bother me after a few hours. I did the bulk of my training without gloves to build up callouses and because I didn't want to have to wear gloves in the rain. (I did, however, wear gloves at the start of PBP through to Villanes simply because the peloton was so fast and large... the risk of an accident seemed substantial.)

6. Small headlamp. Essential for spotting arrows, reading a computer in the dark (for distance), and roadside repairs. Princeton Tec makes a small lamp that clips on a cap brim; it throws off a surprisingly useful beam and weighs less than an ounce. Just be sure to turn it off before you look at someone and accidentally blind them.

7. Beef jerkey. Great for some protein during long rides and gives you something to chew on (as opposed to bike food).

8. Caffeine. Truly a great ergogenic aid. It reduces fatigue and increases your body's ability to metabolize fat. To get the most benefit, quit drinking coffee at least a month or two before the ride. I had never previously gone more than 40 hours without sleep, and I'm not sure I could have without a little caffeine.

Things to carry:

1. Extra bolts. If you lose one it can be a ride stopper. Consider a cleat bolt and a chainring bolt. I've never needed either, but they don't weigh much or take up much room. The alternative can be a show-stopper.

2. Extra water bottle. Instead of carrying a Camelbak consider an extra water bottle in one of your jersey pockets. It weighs less, and puts the weight lower on your back. The amount of pressure on your shoulders and upper back is much less than with a Camelback, but you get the range needed to make it 80-90km between controles.

3. Food. Carry some for emergencies (e.g., mechanical problem between controles) but realize that nothing beats real food after 48+ hours on a bike, as long as your stomach can take it. At PBP the controles were amazingly well stocked. Dairy products worked very well for me, meat products -- like the inevitable ham sandwich -- less so. And yes, the mashed potatoes at Loudeac really do have restorative properties.

4. Ointment. Figure out what works, and bring some along. Sitting in a wet chamois for a few days, even if you change your shorts every few hundred kilometers, will lead to diaper rash. Be prepared.

5. Other medications. Stomach antacid (Tums and Tagamet equivalent), anti-inflammatory (ibuprofen or naproxen, but realize that your kidneys will already be stressed by the ride), caffeine pills (subject to debate, but easier to carry than a cup of coffee when it's 3am and you're still 40km from the next controle), antiseptic wipes (for your hands and/or perineal area when a shower isn't feasible), basic first-aid kit (hope you don't need it), Traumeel (wonder gel for inflamed tendons), Tiger Balm (to keep sore muscles from stiffening up) and toothbrush and toothpaste (works wonders after 2+ days on the bike).

6. Small packet of Kleenex or TP. You never know...

7. Chain lube. Duh.

Training tips:

1. Ride 1000km or 1200km some time before PBP. Someone once wrote that after 400km nothing changes. This is not true in my experience. Little aches become big ones, and big ones become show stoppers. Things that you can get away with up to 600km may not work for longer distances, such as food choices, time without sleep, riding speed, and even bike fit. Know how your body reacts after 800km, it may surprise you. For a first-time 1200, PBP offers additional challenges (language, crowd size, time zone, etc.) that are not factors on rides like Last Chance or BMB. You also will have a new appreciation for chip sealed roads.

2. Practice standing on the pedals. Hills that present no problem during the typical 200-300km training ride will be much more difficult after 1000km. This seems obvious, but get your muscles and tendons used to standing during training. The alternative may be tendinitis during the main event. Also consider a larger cogset. I typically ride an 11/23, but used a 12/25 for PBP... and I was very glad I did.

3. Practice riding at threshold. You may wonder why, for an event where your goal (likely) is to stay below 75% of maximum, you should train your top end. Simply put, it makes you more efficient. You will become stronger and faster at lower intensities by training 1-2 hours per week at high intensity. Plus, as several anciens have pointed out, you will have the strength and stamina to catch a pace line if you want to jump on.

4. Practice night rides. Ride your 600km straight through so you know the fatigue involved in chasing controle closing times. It will also help you refine your eating strategy (yes, you need one). Go for rides starting at 9:00 or 10:00 at night, even if it's just for a few hours. It will help you become more confident and faster (your average speed typically drops dramatically at night). Consider riding all night and then hooking up with a club ride to get in some major distance training, but try to go with a friend or two for safety. Also, if you use battery powered lights, you need to know how long the batteries will last.

5. Practice paceline skills. This is, for me, essential at PBP. If you know how to work a paceline, how to echelon (overlap) in the wind, and how to move through for your pull you will make friends. If you don't, you'll be riding solo much of the time. Ideally you also will practice bumping with a buddy in a field, touching tires, and cornering while holding a line (so you don't cut off the guy to your side).

6. Ride in the rain. In my mind this is overrated. Just know how your bike handles and how much longer it takes to stop. Beyond that, it's a mental thing and you just have to deal with it. You don't have to like it, you just have to deal with it. Folks from Seattle or Brittany may disagree, but that's another conversation (and I doubt that even they like putting wet socks and bike shoes back on after briefly drying out at a controle.)

7. Learn some French. At a minimum, learn directional information... that way you won't go straight when everyone tries to turn right. It may also be helpful if you get lost and decide to add some extra mileage.

8. Polish your manners. If you don't have any, try to practice before you get to France. Being polite definitely counts. You might want to add 'patience' to the list as well. The PBP officials are going to do things their way no matter what you want, so just go with the flow.

Bicycle tips:

1. Reliable machine. It's been said before that you should start on a thoroughly reliable machine. Believe it. I know some people insist on carrying spare cables, tires, chains, etc. Maybe I'm lucky that didn't need any of this at PBP. On the other hand, I've never needed any of it on a training ride simply because I take care of my bike and replace parts before they are worn out. Comfort is pretty important, too, so think twice before choosing a bike with a 4-5" drop from seat to handlebar.

2. Bags. Whether you go with a handlebar bag or a seatbag, consider how you will get access to what you need in the dark and/or rain. At PBP, when wearing a rain jacket, it was almost impossible to reach into jersey pockets for food. I avoided this problem by using a handlebar bag... it was like having a deli in front of me at all times (almost).

3. Wheels. Believe what everyone says about strong wheels. At night you are bound to hit potholes, curbs or rocks that would never be a problem in daylight. It's nice to know that your wheels won't break on impact, especially descending at 40kph at night in a driving rainstorm. In a paceline of several hundred people.

4. Stem. If you start to get a backache, think about flipping your stem to raise your handlebars. I didn't have to do this, but it was a contingency plan if I did get a backache. You could also put an extra spacer above your handlebars on your steerer tube, to be moved if/when necessary. Similarly, you could rotate your handlebars to move the brake hoods up and back, though this might change your position on the bike too drastically when in the drops.

All of the above worked for me, but the art of PBP is such that one size definitely does NOT fit all. Among the lessons I learned in 2007 is this one: Have a plan, have a back-up plan for when your primary plan fails, and have perseverance for when your back-up plan fails. In my case, it meant I still had a great time.